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Don’t fall into the trap of thinking that Koh Phangan is an island solely for party travellers. While the Full Moon Party’s reputation speaks for itself, we found plenty of other things to do that painted a very different picture!
We initially thought that the Full Moon Party was the only reason to visit Koh Phangan and, as that isn’t our scene, we very nearly wrote it off our Thailand itinerary.
But with only one week of each month dedicated to the full moon events and parties, we thought surely there is a different side of the island (and cheaper accommodation) during the other three weeks of the month.
So we decided to visit anyway, as a stop before Koh Tao, and thank goodness we did!
It didn’t take us long to realise that Koh Phangan has so much more to offer than just great nightlife, as we were soon discovering postcard-worthy beaches, spectacular viewpoints, and other island adventures!
We enjoyed our time on the island so much that we came back the following year and stayed for a relaxing month, fully embracing the island life!
So, our travel guide is dedicated to all of our favourite things to do on Koh Phangan without partying, as well as other useful information like how to get around, where to stay, the best time to visit and more!
1. Cruise The Palm Tree-Lined Roads On A Scooter
It’s rather simple, but what we enjoyed the most on Koh Phangan was cruising around the island’s quieter roads on our scooter.
Not only did it allow us to explore the island at our own pace, but the scooter rides were what I can only describe as a tropical vibe!
The feeling of the open air as we rode along the palm-fringed roads, surrounded by views of the island’s mountainous jungle, felt like pure freedom. Even after three months of exploring Thailand from north to south, cruising around Koh Phangan is still one of our top memories!
Some of our favourite areas were the road north towards Chaloklum, the back roads inland of Baan Tai, and the coastal road approaching Haad Rin.
On both of our trips to Koh Phangan, we rented a scooter from Pukki’s Motorbike Rental and, after our experience, we highly recommend them for their high-quality scooters and trustworthy service.
Important notes for renting a scooter on Koh Phangan:
– Make sure to have an International Driving License.
– Make sure riding a scooter is covered under your travel insurance (I had to complete my CBT in the UK to be covered by True Traveller).
– Always wear a helmet and don’t be the guy who rides shirtless.
– Check Google Map reviews of scooter rental companies prior to renting.
– Never leave your passport as a deposit when renting a scooter, only cash.
– Always take thorough photos and video evidence of the scooter’s condition before renting.
2. Beach Hop Around The Island
With scenic bays that look like they belong in a travel magazine scattered all around the coastline, we spent a lot of time hopping from one beach to the next in our search for Koh Phangan’s best beaches.
We didn’t think they could get any better than the beautiful beaches on Koh Lipe that we’d been sunbathing on a few weeks before, but somehow they were!
There’s also a much bigger selection on Koh Phangan too
And while most feature the typical white sand, turquoise water and coconut palms that you’d expect on any tropical Thai island, we found beaches of different shapes, sizes, and vibes.
From the bustling Haad Rin in the south, to the relaxed atmosphere and sunsets in the northwest, to the remote Haad Sadet, to the sandbar at Mae Haad, there’s a beach for everyone!
It’s a hard task to pick just a few favourites, but ours are:
- Chaloklum Beach for swimming in its calm water
- Haad Rin for sunbathing with an upbeat atmosphere
- Bottle Beach for ultimate seclusion
- Haad Yao for chilled sunsets
While there are still more epic things to do while you’re on Koh Phangan, I wouldn’t blame you for wanting to spend the entirety of your time here soaking up the paradise beach vibes!
I know that’s what we spent most of our time doing!
3. Take A Boat To Bottle Beach
Bottle Beach is one of Koh Phangan’s most isolated and hardest-to-reach beaches as it’s only accessible by taxi boat, a 1.5-2 hour sweaty hike, or 4WD taxi.
And I know this sounds like an unnecessary effort, but we were convinced that it would be worth it, so we went for the easiest option of taking a taxi boat from the nearby Chaloklum Beach, which costs 600 THB per person.
After the short trip around the headland and a cautious approach to the wavy shore, we made it onto the white sand of Bottle Beach and immediately knew we’d made a fantastic decision.
The water might have been a lot choppier than where we’d just come from, but with palm trees, mountains, and granite boulders surrounding the beach, we had no doubt that we’d found one of Koh Phangan’s most stunning bays!
That’s not all though.
What we really loved about Bottle Beach was its remote location. With just a couple of bungalow resorts behind it, the beach felt a world away from the island’s built-up areas and we spent an afternoon soaking up that secluded tropical island feeling!
4. Take in The Epic Views At Bottle Beach Viewpoint
Google Maps Pin: Phasawan Viewpoint
There are some breathtaking views to be found on all the Thai Gulf islands including the spectacular Koh Tao viewpoints. However, here on Koh Phangan, our favourite lookout has to be the Bottle Beach viewpoint.
Located on a huge boulder in the hills behind Bottle Beach, it’s a bit of a scramble to get up onto the viewpoint itself, but once we made it we were rewarded with some incredible panoramic views!
Not only was it an epic view of bottle Beach down below, but the views of the surrounding coastline and mountainous jungle were spectacular!
Well worth the adventure!
The only disappointment was that we didn’t have a drone like the guy next to us. I can only imagine how insane his footage was!
Like our trip to Bottle Beach, we took the easy option to get here by riding our scooter to the viewpoint’s car park (close to Thong Nai Pan) and hiking from there. It was an easy trail from here until the last section up onto the rock, which would have been safer if we’d had our trainers rather than flip-flops on!
The other option is to take on the longer hike of around 3.5km (one way) from Haad Khom Beach, which All Trails ranks in first place in their list of best trails in Koh Phangan!
Travel tip: If you’re planning to visit the Bottle Beach viewpoint for sunset make sure to leave enough time for the hike back, as I wouldn’t want to be leaving the viewpoint in the dark!
5. Sip On A Coffee With A View At What’s Cup
Opening Times: 8am – 5.30pm
Google Maps Pin: What’s Cup!
Whether you’re a coffee lover, tea drinker or fancy some brunch or a cake, it’s always better to enjoy it with a view!
Am I right?
So, while Koh Phangan has a great selection of vibey coffee shops, What’s Cup Café was our favourite as we were able to pair our tasty coffees with with an amazing view over the bay of Haad Yao.
Just 500m south of Haad Yao, with scooter parking outside, this became our go-to spot for a quality coffee either after some beach time in the northwest or in the late afternoon before catching the sunset on Haad Yao.
6. Take A Day Trip To Koh Nang Yuan
What if I told you there is an island even more beautiful than Koh Phangan just an hour boat ride away?
The tiny island of Koh Nang Yuan epitomises paradise with its small strip of glistening white sand connecting three rocky, jungle-like islets. We were blown away the second we stepped foot on the white sand!
But as well as boasting a perfect tropical beach and great snorkelling, this island is also where we found one of the best viewpoints in Thailand!
In my eyes, this view alone is worth making the trip from Koh Phangan!
We actually visited from Koh Tao as it’s closer and easier, but if your itinerary doesn’t include Koh Tao, you can still take a day trip from Koh Phangan by joining a Koh Nang Yuan and Koh Tao snorkelling tour!
The speedboat journey takes 1 hour and, while the main focus of the tour will be Koh Nang Yuan where you can enjoy lunch and free time in paradise, there is also a stop at one of Koh Tao’s top snorkelling points too!
You can easily book a trip to Koh Nang Yuan online in advance or at one of the tour agencies in Koh Phangan.
7. Stroll Out To Koh Ma (From Mae Haad)
I have to admit, we were underwhelmed with Mae Haad Beach itself as the sand wasn’t as powdery and the water was choppier and murkier than other beaches we’d been to.
However, Mae Haad is still an unmissable spot on Koh Phangan purely for the sandbar that appears at low tide.
Leading out from the northwest corner of the beach, the sandbar connects Koh Phangan with Koh Ma, a tiny uninhabited island covered in shrub and surrounded by smooth granite boulders.
It might not be quite as magnificent as the one on Koh Nang Yuan, but it was one of the most unique parts of Koh Phangan that we came across.
Thankfully, when we visited, the tide was just right and we were able to wander over to Koh Ma on a mini adventure.
But just a few hours later, as we were leaving, the sand bar was fully submerged and people were wading back over from Koh Ma!
So make sure to visit at low tide or be prepared to get wet!
8. Visit The Kuan Yin Temple (Chinese Temple)
Opening Times: 8am – 5pm
Entrance Fee: 40 THB
Google Maps Pin: Kuan Yin Temple (Chinese Temple)
Even though Koh Phangan is more famous for its beaches and parties rather than temples, the Kuan Yin Temple (also known as the Chinese Temple or Goddess of Mercy Temple) should also be on your island itinerary!
We visited more than a few temples during our Thailand adventures (of course), but the colourful Kuan Yin Temple, which is split over three levels and surrounded by Koh Phangan’s green landscape and mountains, is up there with the most scenic!
Maybe it was the ornate golden statues of the Buddha, Kuan Yin, and dragons, or the eye-catching orange and teal roofs, or because of the sweeping landscapes, or maybe it was simply because there were only a handful of other tourists, but we had a great experience exploring the temple complex.
Located in the north of Koh Phangan, just off the main road towards the coastal village of Chaloklum, we visited in the morning before riding onwards to beach hop between Malibu, Chaloklum, and Haad Khom beaches on the north coast.
9. Skip Zen Beach And Take In The Sunset On Haad Yao
Nothing rounds off a day of island life quite like kicking back on the beach and watching the sun go down over the sea. And on Koh Phangan, nowhere beats the sunset view from the northwest beaches.
One in particular, Zen Beach, gets a lot of hype and attention as the best sunset spot, so we had to go along and check it out!
But while we did enjoy the lively atmosphere and drinking our Chang beers, it was too busy to go back on a regular basis. Once was enough!
So where would we recommend instead?
Well, when we arrived at Haad Yao for sunset a few nights later, we quickly realised that this was our favourite sunset spot on Koh Phangan!
It was much more open and less crowded, but still had the same wonderful view of the sun going down.
We ended up on Haad Yao for sunset regularly during our second trip and one of my favourite memories is when we brought our new friends Mat and Joe along with us, found a little spot near the 7-11, and threw our frisbee as the sky lit up in a burning orange colour.
Simple, laid-back, and just the perfect way to end the day!
So, while Zen Beach is still worth visiting, we preferred the peacefulness of Haad Yao.
10. Eat All The Street Food At The Night Markets
Ok, after visiting Chiang Mai, I’m not going to try and tell you that Koh Phangan’s night markets are better, but sampling different dishes at the various market stalls was our favourite thing to do at night!
We went almost every night to Pantip Market, in the heart of Thong Sala, eating everything from the classic pad thai and pad see ew dishes to pizza, kebabs, smoothies, and sweet treats.
Next to Pantip Market’s food stalls there are also vendors with jewellery and small crafts, but unfortunately not the cheap and rustic foot massages that I loved at the Chiang Mai night market.
Phangan Food Court is another great place close to Thong Sala where we found amazing street food at great prices. We had some great pizza and brownies, but our favourite here was the Lebanese dishes we tried! Like Pantip Market, there is more than just food here too, and we spent some time digging in the market-style clothes rails for some bargains.
The biggest night market though, which takes place on Saturdays on Thong Sala’s Walking Street, is street food galore! For anyone like me who loves to try a little bit of everything, this market is an absolute treat!
11. Walk Out On The Hin Kong Sandbank
Google Maps Pin: Hin Kong Sandbank
One of the most unique things we did on Koh Phangan was taking a wander out on the Hin Kong sandbank.
This spit of sand appears,at low tide, stretching out from the middle of Hin Kong Beach in the shape of a ‘T’. If you have a drone (which we sadly didn’t at the time), it’s a great place to get some stunning aerial shots!
I highly recommend visiting at sunset and tying it in with dinner at the beachfront restaurant Mama Kop. They serve delicious homemade Thai food and, considering their table are right on the beach, the prices are fantastic too!
Alternatively, you can find a few other restaurants and bars along this beach which is a nice place to chill with a beer or cocktail in the evening while the sun is setting.
12. Savour A Delicious Pastry At The German Bakery
Opening Times: 6am – 4.30pm (Monday to Friday)
Google Maps Pin: German Bakery By Achim
As bakery and pastry lovers, we didn’t realise the treat that we were in for on Koh Phangan.
After a few months in Southeast Asia, we’d long since given up on finding some European-style bread and pastries that we were missing so much.
That is until we discovered the German Bakery by Achim on Koh Phangan. With equipment shipped over from Germany, Achim’s Bakery is the real deal!
The freshly baked flaky pastries and sourdough bread are to die for, and our personal favourites were the almond and chocolate croissants.
Absolutely delicious!
The bakery is located on the outskirts of Thong Sala, at the side of the main road heading south. However, it’s quite subtle and we actually drove past it without realising the first time.
There are a handful of outdoor and shaded tables, but it’s not about the decor, or the vibe, or even the coffee here. It’s all about those flaky pastries!
13. Check Out Phaeng Noi Waterfall (In The Right Season)
Entrance Fee: 100 THB (plus 20 THB for scooter parking)
Google Maps Pin: Phaeng Noi Waterfall
Honestly, waterfalls hadn’t been on our radar when we first arrived on Koh Phangan.
But one morning, as we were sitting in Indigo Cafe sipping on a cappuccino and figuring out what to do that day, Lucy came across Phaeng Noi Waterfall. Then a few more, including Than Sadet Waterfall, Paradise Waterfall, Wang Sai Waterfall, and Sramanora Waterfall.
Phaeng Noi Waterfall seemed like it would be the most impressive, so it was decided that’s where the day’s adventure would take us.
But this was during our second trip to Koh Phangan in the month of February which is the height of the dry season. This meant there hadn’t been any recent rain and although we went with great expectations, all we found was a couple of dribbles flowing down.
We were kicking oursevels that we hadn’t visited on our first trip in September as, even though there wasn’t much of a waterfall, we could tell it will be amazing at the right time of year.
So we still recommend it, just don’t make our mistake and think about the season first!
How To Get Around The Island
We stayed in Thong Sala on both of our trips to Koh Phangan so we needed transport even just to get to the beach, as there aren’t any decent ones within walking distance.
But we also wanted to get out and explore different areas of the island anyway which, unlike Koh Lipe and Koh Phi Phi that we’d already been to, isn’t possible on foot. Koh Phangan still isn’t a huge island though and it takes less than an hour to drive from north to south and east to west.
Therefore, we found that having our own scooter was the best way to get around Koh Phangan. It’s the cheapest and most and most convenient option which gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace.
As I mentioned earlier, we recommend Pukki’s Motorbike Rental between Baan Tai and Thong Sala. We rented from here a couple of times and always found high-quality scooters and trustworthy service.
However, if you don’t fancy riding a scooter, which I’d only recommend if you feel confident and have the correct license and travel insurance, there are shared pick-up taxis (songtheows) that operate regularly on the main roads between Haad Rin, Thong Sala, the northwest coast, and Chaloklum.
Or you can book a private or shared all-in-one beach, waterfall, snorkelling, and sunset island tour!
Don’t Feel Comfortable Riding A Scooter?
You can still have a road trip adventure and discover epic spots across Koh Phangan by joining this shared island tour or this private tour!
Where To Stay On Koh Phangan
Area Recommendations
Accommodation for all budgets can be found on Koh Phangan and each area has its own vibe. We stayed in Thong Sala as budget was our priority, but here’s a quick summary of each area to help you decide which one is suited to you.
Thong Sala is Koh Phangan’s biggest town and is where you’ll generally find the cheapest options. Here you also have the biggest choice of restaurants and food markets on your doorstep. Just bear in mind you’ll have to travel to get to the island’s best beaches.
Haad Rin is one of the liveliest areas of Koh Phangan and is where the famous Full Moon Party is held. It’s the place to be for a lively beach holiday atmosphere and has plenty of bars and nightlife, as well as being home to one of Koh Phangan’s best beaches.
The Northwest Bays are quieter alternatives suited for couples and families looking to stay on an idyllic beach while still being relatively close to the bustle. Our top choices are Haad Salad, Haad Yao and Chaloklum.
Thong Nai Pan is located on the less developed and quieter eastern side of Koh Phangan. This is the top choice for families, those looking for the most luxurious resorts, and travellers looking to escape from all the bustle without sacrificing amenities.
Haad Than Sadet Beach is the ultimate escape from crowds found within Than Sadet National Park on the eastern side of Koh Phangan. There are only a couple of accommodations and restaurants here and the vibe is quiet and rustic. There are no shops or 7-11s around here which suits some travellers just fine.
Hotel Recommendations
To save you time researching, here are our top picks for hotels on Koh Phangan with something for every budget.
Phangan Arena Hostel ($): With one of the best hostel atmospheres in Koh Phangan and boasting some impressive facilities, including a swimming pool, an astroturf football pitch, games rooms and daily activities. Perfect for backpackers looking for fun and great nightlife!
Santhiya Koh Phangan Resort and Beach ($$): This peaceful beachfront resort backs onto the jungle and has bungalows with traditional Thai style wooden interiors. Ideal for travellers looking to unwind in a paradise!
Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villas ($$$): Enjoy world-class service at this beachfront villa resort with private villas featuring sun terraces, pools and panoramic coastal views. Nothing says island luxury more than this!
How Long To Stay
We like to think that three nights and two full days in a new city or destination provides the best balance when on a multi-destination itinerary.
But there are some places where we throw this out of the window and stay for longer!
And Koh Phangan is one of those places for us. We’d allowed for five days on our first trip as we knew there was a lot we wanted to explore and, while this was sufficient, we soon knew we wanted more.
So we came back to work remotely for a month and, even after that, Koh Phangan is somewhere we could stay for so much longer! It’s got enough essentials for us to live comfortably, like great coffee spots, without feeling too overdeveloped.
But if time is limited and you’re trying to squeeze places into a packed Thailand itinerary, I’d recommend at least three nights to have one day for exploring and one for swimming at the beach.
However, if you have long buses or trains to the likes of Bangkok, Krabi, or Phuket on either side, I’d bump this up to at least five nights for a better balance.
Our Top Food And Coffee Spots
The various Koh Phangan Night Markets were our favourite places to eat as we love to try different street food stalls! While the Thong Sala Saturday Local Market was the highlight, we enjoyed eating our way around the Thong Sala’s Pantip Market and the Phangan Food Court on other days.
We also found ourselves eating at Mama Kop a lot! Located on Hin Kong Beach, it’s a beachfront restaurant without the price tag and serves home-cooked meals, including curries, stir-fries, noodles, soups, and salads. While we enjoyed some lunches here, I have to say dinner during golden hour was fantastic!
While we’re not vegan ourselves, we joined our friend Mat a few times at Pure Vegan Heaven in Thong Sala and we were impressed with the quality! Their menu includes a variety of tasty vegan dishes, including smoothie bowls, poke bowls, pasta, wraps, burgers, Thai food, juices, and more.
For coffee, we’ve actually written a full guide on our favourite Koh Phangan cafes, but our top three were:
- What’s Cup: For the views.
- Balance Speciality Coffee: For the best flat whites on Koh Phangan.
- Indigo Speciality Coffee & Bakery: For getting some laptop work done.
Best Time To Visit Koh Phangan
Koh Phangan is a year-round destination where the temperature consistently sits in the mid-twenty to low-thirty degree range.
However, it’s good to be aware of the different seasons when planning for your trip as the weather and rainfall change throughout the year.
The three main seasons are:
Dry (December to March): With cooler temperatures, lower humidity, and calmer seas, this is the most comfortable time of year to visit and when the beaches are at their finest. However, this is also when high season falls (December to February) and we definitely felt the higher accommodation prices during this time.
Hot (April to August): These are the sweltering months when temperatures rise to the mid-thirties. This also includes the low season (June to August) when the rain starts to pick up sporadically as the wet season approaches.
Wet (September to November): As you might imagine, this is the period when Koh Phangan sees the highest rainfall. In particular, October and November are exceptionally wet, so be prepared to dodge downpours if you’re visiting during this time! However, we found more accommodation available and better deals too on our first trip in September.
Our travel style is to avoid high seasons when we can, and this only became stronger after our second trip to Koh Phangan in February. While the weather was perfect, we found it much harder to find decent budget accommodation compared to our first trip in September, which, apart from the occasional afternoon shower, was a much better experience!
We’ve always found the best balance in the shoulder seasons, so if we return to Koh Phangan in the future, we’ll aim for March to April to catch the end of the dry season when the seas are still calm and the crowds are smaller.
Travel tip: As well as higher prices between December and February, we also noticed a surge in accommodation prices during the week of the full moon. So, if you’re not attending the party, avoid that week for much better deals!
How To Get To Koh Phangan
As there is no airport on Koh Phangan, every journey to the island includes a ferry at some point, and there are multiple daily direct ferries and speedboats departing from Surat Thani, Koh Samui, and Koh Tao.
On our second trip, we were travelling from Koh Samui, which was an easy 30-minute journey from Samui’s Lomprayah Bangrak Pier to Thong Sala. We saw lots of small travel agencies around the island selling tickets, but we preferred the ease of booking online with 12Go.
The cheapest option from Bangkok and other destinations in the south of Thailand, like Phuket, Krabi, and Koh Phi Phi, is to book a combination ticket. This is an all-in-one ticket from A to B that includes all bus and ferry transfers and is what we opted for on our first trip when we travelled from Ao Nang to Koh Phangan. Again, we hopped onto 12Go to secure our tickets.
However, it can be a long travel day to Koh Phangan overland. So, the more comfortable option from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket, Krabi, or from abroad, is to fly to the closest airport (located on Koh Samui) and take the short ferry over from there. This is also the best option for anyone who suffers from seasickness, as it’s the shortest ferry to Koh Phangan!
Final Thoughts
I hope our travel guide has helped to fuel your Koh Phangan inspiration and shows what an incredible tropical island it is when you look past the parties.
It’s our favourite of all the Thai islands we’ve visited so far and we definitely recommend adding it to your Thailand itinerary!
If you have any questions about Koh Phangan, leave a comment below and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can!
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Our Other Thailand guides
Find more inspiration in our other Thailand Travel Guides!
Koh Phangan changed a lot and is no loner just a backpackers island (actually it never really was). In just the past five years, luxury developments like pool villas and upscale resorts have sprung up, drawing in a wider array of visitors. Fortunately, the island’s relaxed atmosphere persists, and I hope it stays that way. It would be unfortunate if it turned into a smaller version of Koh Samui with overcrowded streets and busy traffic.
Hi James, I agree I hope the relaxed atmosphere stays too! I guess overdevelopment is all too common with popular places nowadays. Hopefully Koh Phangan keeps its charm!