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This is exactly how to visit Porto Palermo Castle from Himare, including our experience without a car, why it’s worth visiting, and what to see while you’re there. Plus, we’ve included some other attractions worth checking out while in the bay too!
When we were planning our first trip to Himare, taking the short 8km trip along the coast to visit Porto Palermo Castle (Kalaja e Porto Palermos) was a recommendation that popped up a few times.
We read about a triangular-shaped, 19th-century fortress which is still intact today and open for tourists to explore.
But that’s not all, it sits upon a once-isolated island that is now connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land and has epic panoramic views of the whole Bay of Porto Palermo!
And normally this would be right up our street!
But we didn’t visit on this trip, as we were in full beach bum mode.
By the time we managed to pull ourselves away from Himare’s stunning pebble shorelines, it was already time to catch our bus south to Saranda!
However, when we returned to Himare a few years later, we didn’t want to miss it a second time, so we made visiting Porto Palermo Castle a priority!
We caught the public bus along the coast, and dedicated a full day to exploring the Bay of Porto Palermo, spending time exploring the fascinating castle structure and swimming at the beautiful Porto Palermo Beach.
And our verdict?
Porto Palermo Castle is not to be missed when in Himare!
Brief History of Porto Palermo Castle
The best place to start is with a quick introduction to Porto Palermo Castle and how it fits into history.
The fortress dates back to at least 1804 with a, now missing, plaque that was once above the entrance stating it was built by an Ottoman ruler by the name of Ali Pasha of Tepelena. This was after he conquered the entire Ionian coastline in the early 19th century.
However, there are claims that it was constructed earlier by the Venetians, due to the similar shape to the triangular structure further south in Butrint, and that Ali Pasha in fact rebuilt an earlier fortification rather than building from scratch.
Regardless, Porto Palermo Castle served as one of Ali Pasha’s strategic posts used to fortify and control the coast.
Even after the Ottoman period, the castle continued to be used. It was occupied by the Italians during World War Two when it was also used as a prison, and then as part of a submarine base during Albania’s communist regime. Remnants of the latter can still be seen today with the old submarine tunnel that’s built into the rock in the north of the bay.
Declared a cultural monument in 1948, today Porto Palermo Castle serves as a museum and historical landmark where tourists like us can enjoy an informative visit.
Where Is Porto Palermo Castle?
Google Maps Pin: The Castle of Porto Palermo
Porto Palermo Castle is located on the coastline of the Albanian Riviera, about halfway between Vlore and Saranda.
It sits right in the centre of Porto Palermo Bay, about 15 minutes (8km) south of Himare.
The large and undeveloped bay is about 3km long and features a militarised zone to the north and a small but magical beach to the south, as well as a small marina, a couple of restaurants, and one accommodation.
However, Porto Palermo Castle is undoubtedly the main attraction!
You can see its location in the heart of the bay below, where I’ve pinned it on the map.
Why It Is Worth Visiting
There are a few worthwhile day trips to take while in Himare, with Grama Bay and hiking to Pilur being a few of our favourites, but we also think that Porto Palermo Castle deserves to be on your itinerary too!
And this is for a couple of reasons.
Firstly, the unique triangular shape of the castle is unlike anywhere we’ve been before. Although hard to tell from the ground, we found the best place to actually see the shape was up on the terrace, where the three corner points clearly stand out.
However, if you have a drone, then that will give you the ultimate view!
We also loved that there has been very little restoration of the fort, as it has stood the test of time very well. Unlike Himare Castle, which is mostly in ruins, the structure of Porto Palermo Castle is still very intact, which meant that we didn’t have to rely on our imagination to bring it to life.
However, as much as the views are fantastic, I have to admit that Himare Castle wins in that department!
Finally, it’s worth it as it doesn’t have to be a single attraction trip. We combined our visit with a swim at the postcard-worthy Porto Palermo Beach and spotted the old submarine bunker on the bus back too! And if that’s not enough, then you can even book a top-rated kayak or paddleboard tour of the bay as well!
We have no regrets about dedicating a day to visiting the Bay of Porto Palermo and only wish we’d done it the first time we were in Himare!
Tickets and Opening Hours
The entrance tickets for Porto Palermo Castle cost 300 ALL per person, and can only be paid in cash (Euros not accepted) at the castle’s main entrance.
The opening times, which differ slightly depending on the season, are:
Summer season: Monday to Friday, 09:00 – 18:00
Winter season: Monday to Sunday, 08:00 – 16:00
Our Experience Inside The Castle
Exploring The Ground Floor
Before entering the castle, we took a few minutes to read the information signs on the path leading to the entrance.
We liked that these, and the other information signs inside, were there as it really helped to build historic context, understand the purposes the fort has served, and let us know exactly what we were looking at.
Then, after admiring our first real glimpses of the limestone wall, lookout turrets, and arched entrance, we bought our tickets and made our way inside.
Immediately, we found ourselves in the central rotunda, decorated with paintings and with several archways breaking off into different areas. It was noticeably cool and very dimly lit in here, which, I have to say, creeped us out a bit and gave the place an eerie atmosphere.
We took our time and had a nose in each of the ground-floor areas, including the courtyard, Ali Pasha’s room, and the soldiers’ quarters, before summoning the courage to teeter into the pitch-black prison area, which took the eerie feeling to a whole new level!
Needless to say, we didn’t stay long here and sought daylight as we climbed the stairs up to the terrace, which is the part of the castle that you absolutely cannot miss!
Exploring The Upper Terrace
It was up on the terrace that the triangular shape of the castle actually became obvious to us, and we were spoiled with tremendous panoramic views of the sea and mountains!
I also discovered my favourite part of the fort on the terrace, which was the brick window frames inside the small watchtowers at each of the three corners. As a photographer, I loved using these to frame my shots of the sea view.
Overall, we spent about 45 minutes in the castle, which was ample time to wander at a slow pace, read the information signs, take in the views, and, of course, snap some Instagram photos up on the terrace!
Secure Your Spot On Our Favourite Tour To Grama Bay Too!
What To Look Out For
Porto Palermo Castle isn’t humongous, so there isn’t as big a list of things to see as places like Berat Castle and the ruins at Butrint, but there are a few highlights to discover in this unique historic structure.
I recommend keeping an eye out for:
- The upper terrace with tremendous views in every direction.
- The pentagonal watchtowers in each corner of the terrace, where you can go inside and look out through the window frames.
- The courtyard on the ground floor and its two watchtowers, which look west over the Ionian Sea.
- The prison on the ground floor which is pitch dark and pretty eerie!
- The painting of Ali Pasha himself on the ground floor.
- The Church of Saint Nikola which has been beautifully restored with white stone and a red roof (not in the castle itself but on the opposite side of the car park).
How To Get To Porto Palermo Castle From Himare
While some people pull into Porto Palermo to visit while road tripping along the Albanian Riviera, most, like us, visit as a day trip from Himare.
Himare is the closest town to Porto Palermo, just 15 minutes along the road, and we enjoyed a day trip without needing to rent a car.
So, to get from Himare to Porto Palermo Castle, you can:
- Catch the bus (Our Choice)
- Drive
- Cycle
Technically, you could also walk, but we don’t recommend this as it’s not possible to follow the coast, and instead, you have to hug the edge of the main road, which doesn’t have a pavement. Not to mention it takes up to two hours each way, with some long and steep inclines.
If there was a dedicated hiking trail, I might have tried to convince Lucy to walk, but even still, I think that would have been a lost cause!
Catching The Bus (Our Choice)
After considering renting bikes, we opted for the easier choice of taking the bus.
We caught the 11am local furgon that runs between Vlore and Saranda, which costs 200 ALL (2 EUR) per person each way. It was a classic case of paying the driver when we were getting off and asking him what time he would be back on the return journey to Vlore.
We boarded at the stop opposite the Big Market in the town centre (pinned as Himare Station on Google Maps), but you can also catch it next to Prinos Beach if that stop is closer for you.
Honestly, the best way to get up-to-date times for this route is to ask your hotel/host. This is what we did for much of our bus travel in Albania, especially on the less official routes that aren’t to or from Tirana.
We let the driver know we were going to Porto Palermo, just to make sure he stopped there, as we didn’t want to end up all the way back in Saranda! Conveniently, the bus stops outside Porto Palermo Restaurant, which is just a short walk across from the castle.
This is also the same place to catch it for the return journey to Himare.
Travel tip: Make sure you’re waiting for the return bus at least 15 minutes early, just in case it’s running ahead of time (even though the opposite is more likely)!
Driving
If you have your own rental car, Porto Palermo is an easy and scenic drive from Himare. With the distance between the two only 8km, it takes just 15 minutes.
After winding along the coast, past Llamani Beach and the old naval base, you’ll arrive in the bay. While you can see the castle from the road, it’s easy to miss the right-hand turn which takes you down to the car park that is conveniently located on the strip of land connecting the castle to the main road.
It’s free to park, but it fills up in July and August! Therefore, it’s best to get there early to make sure you can easily get a space.
It’s very convenient though, and means you can get parked right outside the castle.
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Cycling
The more adventurous travellers may fancy pedalling there on two wheels. However, in hindsight, we’re glad that we didn’t opt to cycle.
This is because it’s a steep incline from Himare before finally descending down to the bay of Porto Palermo – which you then have to climb on the way back!
But even if you are up for the cycle, we actually found it hard to find a place renting push bikes, as most only had scooters. Himare Hostel was actually the only place we found.
Facilities At Porto Palermo Castle
One thing that stuck out to us about Porto Palermo Castle was that the attraction itself was not developed or commercialised in any way.
There weren’t any of the gift shops, cafes, or staged scenes in any of the rooms that normally pop up whenever there’s a hint of tourists. There wasn’t even a proper ticket office, just a man sitting behind a table at the entrance.
On one hand, we think this is fantastic as it keeps the attraction more authentic but on the other hand, it means there are no toilets, nowhere to buy food or water, and no benches to perch on for a rest.
However, this isn’t a big problem as on the opposite side of the car park, there are two restaurants with food, drinks, and toilets.
Other Things To Do In Porto Palermo Bay
While exploring the fortress is the main activity, we think it’s worth checking out the other attractions in the bay while you’re there.
Swim At Porto Palermo Beach
There are two beaches in the bay, Palermo Beach and Porto Palermo Beach. The former is located on the strip of land between the castle and the main road, so you’ll definitely see this one on your way to the fortress.
However, the latter, which is located 1.5km south of the castle, is the real gem that we recommend taking some time to visit. This tiny pebbled beach is absolutely beautiful and is up there with Filikuri Beach and Aquarium Beach as one of our favourite beaches in Himare!
We headed here after the castle, as we knew we’d be looking forward to a cooling dip after exploring the castle grounds, and it was perfect!
There are a few parking spots nearby if you have a car, or like us, you can walk along. This took us around 20 minutes, but be aware that there’s no footpath, so you have to walk along the side of the main road.
This picturesque spot is worth it though, and there’s a small beach bar with toilets too.
Spot The Submarine Bunker
In the northern corner of the bay towards Himare is a militarised zone with a feature that casts you back to Albania’s communist dictatorship era: a submarine tunnel built into the mountain.
There are many remnants of this period in the not-too-distant past, such as the many bunkers scattered around the country, but the submarine tunnel is a unique reminder that you don’t see every day.
You can’t go down for a look, as it’s still a private military area, but you can have a good look from the road as you go past.
Travel Tip: You can actually visit the tunnel from the other side, but it takes a bit of effort to get down to it, which we didn’t have the chance to do.
Enjoy Lunch Overlooking The Bay
With a decent menu, why not treat yourself to lunch or a coffee overlooking the bay and castle at the Porto Palermo Restaurant?
Prices can be slightly on the higher side, but with pizza, pasta, burgers, seafood, and more the choose from, it has great reviews and solid views!
Discover Hidden Caves And Beaches On A Guided Kayaking Tour
For those who love getting on the water, there’s an awesome 3-hour kayaking (or SUP) guided tour around the Bay of Porto Palermo that you can join while in Porto Palermo. With hidden caves and secluded beaches to be found, you can also get a unique view of the castle from the sea!
Unfortunately, we didn’t know about this tour when we visited but we want to make sure that you do, as it’s something we won’t miss the next time we’re in Himare (as I know we will be back)!
But one of the best parts is you can easily organise and book the tour in advance online via Get Your Guide!
Attend The Porto Palermo Festival
Since 2021, there has been an annual summer music festival with live performances held within Porto Palermo Castle to celebrate Albanian culture and music and to promote sustainable tourism.
And of course, it brings attention to the castle as a tourist attraction by spicing up this historical monument for a few weeks, as well as having a bigger vision of revitalising the port area.
So, if your trip happens to be at the same time, you could time your visit with a live music performance if you fancy it!
Next Read: How To Hike From Himare To Pilur
To Finish
From the triangular shape of the fortress, to the submarine tunnel, to the festival within the castle, there are a lot of unique aspects to the small bay of Porto Palermo!
But the castle itself is the clear focal attraction and definitely worth a visit if you’re in Himare!
Pin It For Later!
Our Other Albania Guides
Find more inspiration, tips, and advice in our other Albania Travel Guides!
- Saranda Travel Guide: Things To Do, Day Trips, And More
- A Complete Guide To The Best Beaches In Saranda
- Essential Guide To Visiting The Blue Eye (Syri I Kalter)
- Corfu To Saranda By Ferry – Essential Guide
- Getting From Saranda To Ksamil – All You Need To Know
- How To Get From Tirana To Saranda
- Our Favourite Cafes In Saranda
