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There’s not much left of Himare Castle these days, but Old Himare should still be on your itinerary! Find out exactly how and why to visit, as we share our experience in this short travel guide.
These days, most tourists find themselves in Himare for the wonderful beaches and authentic seaside town vibe.
And that’s what initially drew us here too.
When we first came to Himare in 2022, we only left the beach to eat and sleep!
However, when we returned a second time, we made sure to leave the pebbles behind one afternoon to check out Himare’s historic old town and castle ruins.
And we’re so glad that we did!
Perched 240 metres above the town’s main hub below, Old Himare is not just steeped in 3,500+ years of history, but also boasts some of the best panoramic views we witnessed in our favourite Albanian beach town!
So keep reading, as we’ve covered everything you need to know for visiting!
About Himare Castle (Kalaja e Himares) And Old Town
Similar to Berat Castle, another Albanian citadel that we loved, Himare Castle was a strategic fortress situated within the walled settlement known today as Himare Old Town or the Historic Centre of Himare.
And this settlement is still inhabited today with local residents, guesthouses, and even a cafe. It’s also home to a historic school which was founded in 1775 and shut down in 1945 when the Greek language was banned during the communist regime. However, it reopened 61 years later in 2006 and remains in use now.
The origins of Old Himare go back much further though, with the earliest known settlers being from the late Bronze Age, which lived around 3,500 years ago!
Later, the fortified walls were erected and Himare Castle (Barbaka) was established around 400 B.C, and it was mentioned under this name as early as the first century by a Roman author named Pliny.
The fort continued to serve as a strategic stronghold with a significant period of its history being during the Ottoman invasion of Albania, where it resisted attacks until it became the final Albanian fortress to be captured in 1509.
From the early 19th century, Himare Castle was no longer needed for defence purposes and homes began to be built outside the walls. The town continued to expand until it became the Himare that we have now, the Himare that quickly became our favourite beach town in Albania!
Today, the cobbled streets of Old Himare are open for tourists to wander and explore, and it stands as an example of the rich history and cultural heritage of Albania. As I mentioned, you can even stay in a guesthouse here too if you fancy an alternative to the beach area.
Where Actually Is The Old Town And Castle?
Google Maps Pins: Himare Old Town // Himare Castle
The Old Town isn’t located within Himare’s modern and touristy area, the part where most people, like us, stay and spend most of their time.
Instead, Old Himare sits high up on a hill in the background, a total of 240 metres above the modern town, to be exact!
From our boat to Grama Bay, we could see the fortress sitting high on the peak of the hill as we passed Livadhi Beach.
The distance from the promenade is 3km, and there are a few options to get there, which I’ll cover below.
Is It Worth The Effort?
As we lounged on Himare Beach, making good progress in our books, I have to admit that we contemplated skipping the Old Town a second time.
But thank goodness we pulled ourselves together and set off on a late afternoon adventure, as after our visit, we’re so glad we made the effort!
However, it’s not because of the reason you might think.
In fact, if the castle ruins and old town, in which only a small part has been restored, were the only things to see, then it wouldn’t have been worth leaving the beach for.
But while Himare Castle might not be as well preserved as nearby Porto Palermo Castle and the ruins might not be as majestic as in Butrint National Park, where Himare Castle trumps both is with it’s epic viewpoint!
From up here, we were in awe of the surrounding Akrokeraune Mountains and canyons, as well as the magnificent perspective of the bays of Himare and Livadhi below! And these panoramic views are what really make the place worth visiting!
To be honest, I’d say the castle ruins, cobbled streets, and ancient church are just a bonus.
So, even if history isn’t your thing, we’d recommend visiting Himare Castle, even just for the stellar views alone!
How To Get To Himare Castle
We didn’t have a car, scooter, bike, or any form of transport while we were in Himare, and we didn’t want to take a taxi either, so we walked all the way up to Himare Castle!
From the promenade, it took us 45 minutes to get there, and even later on a September afternoon, it was a sweaty hike! Therefore, we’d recommend heading up later in the afternoon as it’ll not only be cooler, but you can also enjoy the best sunset spot in Himare!
Thankfully, there is a narrow pedestrian pavement that we were able to follow the whole way.
If you do have your own rental car though, the journey would be a lot less strenuous and in less than 10 minutes, you’ll be pulling on the handbrake in the car park outside the Old Town entrance.
As a bonus, the car park is free, but it does get full in the peak summer months.
If you don’t have a car and the hike doesn’t sound appealing, then you can negotiate with one of the taxi drivers for a ride up from town.
Or you can, like us, choose the 45 minute steep hike. It’s a sweaty one in the summer so I’d recommend heading up later in the afternoon as it’ll not only be cooler, but you can also enjoy the best sunset spot in Himare!
If you do choose to walk, there’s a narrow pedestrian pavement all the way up.
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Tickets And Opening Times
When we looked at Google Maps reviews, it seemed like entrance tickets to Himare Castle were a hot topic.
Some people reported about the small and unassuming ticket office that didn’t seem to be manned, others complained about the entrance fee being aggressively enforced, while a few recommended heading left through the car park to avoid paying altogether.
When we visited, we found the small hut next to the car park, which we had to pass to reach the main stepped entrance into the old town.
At first it seemed closed, but suddenly a man appeared, seemingly having been on an espresso run, and politely informed us we were to buy tickets. He was nice enough and happy to answer our questions about directions in the best English he could muster (which we appreciated, considering our Albanian was almost non-existent).
In hindsight, I don’t think an entrance fee is warranted as, apart from a couple of information signs, the old town is just a residential and run-down neighbourhood while the castle is just a ruined site.
And we do agree with the discontent of people who are asked to pay when they are only there to dine in the Butterfly Cafe.
But for 300 ALL (3 EUR), it’s still worth it, in our opinion.
Our Experience + What To Expect
From the ticket office, we headed straight up the steps and into the cobbled streets, which led through the residential area and eventually to the castle (10-minute walk).
This part has been beautifully restored and we passed some lovely stone buildings, but what really caught our eye were a couple of vibrant blue and picturesque arched doorways.
After snapping a few photos of the second blue door, we met an older gentleman sitting on a stool outside a house, which I’m guessing was his, and he pointed to an adjoining alley.
We followed his directions and were soon at the top of Old Himare, where we felt a mix of emotions.
At first, we were taken aback by the jaw-dropping views of the coastline below, as well as the surrounding mountains and rolling hills.
The views are truly magnificent!
But then came the question: where is the castle?
We had read that there are only castle ruins, but we hadn’t realised just how little there was left!
There are just a couple of partial stone walls left standing, and we actually thought the Church of Sergius and Baccus was the best part of the structure, so don’t miss ducking your head in there!
The best part of our old town visit though, was Butterfly Cafe, where we took a well-deserved break and caffeine boost during a peaceful golden hour. The views from their terrace are amazing!
We then took a different route back, through some areas in disrepair and in dire need of restoration. I know these things require funding and hopefully it will come, but after seeing the restored buildings and beautiful old town of Berat, it’s easy to imagine how majestic it could be!
You might also like: How To Visit Filikuri Beach Near Himare
Things To Do In Himare Old Town
The old town isn’t laden with attractions and the main things to do are simply to wander, explore, and take in the views. However, there are a few points of interest not to miss while you’re there.
Explore The Ruins Of Himare Castle
The main attraction of the historic centre is Himare Castle which sits up at the highest point of the old town. As I mentioned, much of it is now merely stone ruins and partial walls, but there are a few of the old stone buildings still standing.
In amongst the overgrown shrub, there are paths that allow you to get up close to what remains of the outer wall and peer through the hollow window frames.
If you use your imagination, you can picture how epic it would have been in its heyday, as a defensive fortress perched above and overlooking the coastline (and invaders) below.
Now, I know there are people reading who won’t be overly excited about some old ruins, no matter their historical significance, but this is also where you’ll find the main viewpoint looking out over the coast.
Visit The Church Of Saints Sergius and Baccus
There are four churches in the old town, but arguably the most significant is the Church of Sergius and Baccus which, over one thousand years ago, functioned as the seat of the Archbishop of Himare.
Located within the castle complex, the church has since been declared a cultural monument and inside we saw old frescoes from the Byzantine period. Some of these are on the ceiling at the back which we nearly missed as it was getting dark inside during golden hour and there’s no electricity or lighting in here.
Outside, there’s also the picturesque old bell tower with its red tile roof, perched perfectly above the church.
Have A Refreshment With A View In Cafe Butterfly
Once you’re satisfied with your stroll around the old streets, make sure to stop in at Cafe Butterfly. This lovely little cafe is located on the southern wall, close to the viewpoint and the church, and boasts incredible views of its own from its scenic stone terrace.
The intimate family-run feel was evident as soon as we entered and there’s coffee, fresh juice, beer, cocktails, wine on their menu as well as a simple breakfast, fish, steaks, salad, and traditional desserts.
We enjoyed a couple of espressos here as the sun started to drop below the horizon, a bit late for coffee, I know, but we needed some energy for the hike back to town! It was also great spot to just give our legs a rest.
Enjoy The Sunset
The best time to visit Himare Castle is definitely during sunset and golden hour.
The soft, golden hues over the surrounding landscape created such a peaceful atmosphere was was the perfect end to our day.
I’d recommend enjoying the sunset on Cafe Butterfly’s terrace, as we did, or there are a couple of benches at the main viewpoint which are prime spots.
Next Read: How To Hike From Himare To Pilur
Accommodations Within Old Himare
As I mentioned, it’s possible to stay inside the old town, with a few guesthouses open for business. It’s an alternative option to the lively main area of town below, but is better suited to those who have a car as I wouldn’t fancy hiking up and down every day!
A few guesthouses to consider are:
To Finish
With some of the best views in the area, arguably the town’s best sunset spot, and history dating back thousands of years, Himare Castle and Old Town are definitely worth a visit during one of your afternoons in Himare!
If you can pull yourself away from the beach that is!
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Our Other Albania Guides
Find more inspiration, tips, and advice in our other Albania Travel Guides!
- Saranda Travel Guide: Things To Do, Day Trips, And More
- A Complete Guide To The Best Beaches In Saranda
- Essential Guide To Visiting The Blue Eye (Syri I Kalter)
- Corfu To Saranda By Ferry – Essential Guide
- Getting From Saranda To Ksamil – All You Need To Know
- How To Get From Tirana To Saranda
- Our Favourite Cafes In Saranda
