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A comprehensive travel guide to Himare, Albania’s treasured coastal gem, including how to get there, where to stay, what to do, and more!
Built within a large bay at the foot of the mighty Akrokeraune Mountains, Himare (pronounced Himara and spelt as Himarë in Albanian) is our absolute favourite beach town on the Albanian Riviera!
As soon as we arrived, we fell in love with the authentic charm and abundance of wonderful pebble beaches, which are some of the most beautiful in Albania.
Himare also remains somewhere that locals and holidaymakers alike flock to the beaches with their tote bags and parasols without the overbearing presence of beach clubs that have privatised so many of Albania’s beaches in recent years.
Add in a historic old town and castle that look over the sea, as well as a mix of activities like boat tours, coastal hikes, and epic day trips that are at your fingertips, and you can see why we have such fond memories of Himare.
We’ve now enjoyed two visits in recent years and I want you to also fall in love with its laid-back atmosphere, so I’ve tenaciously put together this complete travel guide with absolutely everything you need to know before visiting Himare!
Is Himare Worth Visiting?
Before getting stuck in, I quickly want to answer this question that many people have when contemplating where to visit on the Albanian coast.
From the first few paragraphs, you can probably tell that yes, I think that Himare is absolutely worth visiting – in fact, I’d go as far as to say it’s the best beach town in Albania!
But is it the right place for you?
What makes Himare stand out is the more authentic Albanian beach town atmosphere it retains.
This is because, while there’s still plenty of hotel and restaurant choices, it’s not as fancy, commercialised, or privatised as the other main towns on the coast.
The beaches in the large central bay, in front of the town’s promenade, remain public and free to enjoy year-round. They’re also much prettier than Saranda’s free beaches and much larger than Ksamil and Dhermi’s designated free options.
And when you combine this with the variety of dreamy beaches in the area, as well as the activities and tours on Himare’s doorstep, it makes a worthy stop on your Albanian itinerary.
However, if you want your days filled with boujee beach days and Instagram-worthy beach clubs, then Ksamil, Dhermi, and even Saranda are better choices.
Where Is Himare?
Himare sits on the southwest coast of Albania, in the middle of a stretch of coastline that the world is hearing more and more about: the Albanian Riviera.
More specifically, it’s 230km south of the capital city of Tirana and the country’s main international airport, and 60km north of Saranda and Ksamil.
However, the closest international airport to Himare is actually on Corfu, a neighbouring Greek island located 85km to the south.
How To Get To Himare
If you’re flying in from another country, then you have two options. The first, and more obvious, is to fly into Tirana and transfer to Himare from there. But another choice is to fly into Corfu, catch the 30 minute ferry to Saranda from there, and then travel up the coast from Saranda.
While Corfu Airport is technically the closest airport to Himare, I’d look at flights to both and consider which is the most convenient option for you.
If travelling to Himare from within Albania, then your three options are bus, rental car, or private transfer as there is no train network south of Tirana.
There are direct buses from the likes of Tirana, Saranda, Vlore, and Fier, but you may need to make a connection if coming from elsewhere.
Note: It’s important, for visa reasons, to consider that Corfu (in Greece) is part of the European Union and as such the Schengen Area, whereas Albania is not.
Tirana To Himare
The journey to Himare from Tirana takes around 3.5 hours and you have a couple of choices depending on your budget and typical travel style.
You can travel in comfort and ease with a private transfer but renting a car is also a popular choice. Not only does having your own wheels give you the ultimate flexibility, but the winding mountain roads between Vlore and Himare make for a breathtaking road trip with magnificent views!
We’ve always chosen to travel by bus though, and with multiple direct departures each day from the North and South Terminal in Tirana, it’s a convenient yet affordable option with tickets costing 1500 ALL (15 EUR). There are a few companies that operate on the route with two of the main ones being Olgeno Travel and Riviera Tours. You can buy tickets from one of the small ticket booths at the station or online through Gjirafa Travel.
Saranda To Himare
The 60km journey to Himare from Saranda takes about an hour and a half and again you have the choice between private transfer, rental car, or bus.
There are multiple bus departures every day which leave from the main bus station in the centre of Saranda and for Himare, you’ll need to catch one heading to Vlore.
The buses on this route tend to be smaller than the coaches from Tirana, but although ours was quite cramped and without air conditioning, the overall journey wasn’t too bad. However, I imagine it being much more uncomfortable in the height of summer!
Nevertheless, you can also expect some tremendous coastal views when coming up from the south too!
Getting To Himare From Other Balkan Countries
If you’re coming into Albania from a neighbouring country like Montenegro, North Macedonia, or even Croatia or Bulgaria, you’ll first need to hop on a bus or flight to Tirana.
From here, you can take one of the options I outlined above onwards to Himare.
Where To Stay
There are three main areas in which you can base yourself in Himare.
The most popular and convenient is in the town centre as it’s on the doorstep of most restaurants, supermarkets and the promenade.
There are also hotels in the south of the bay close to Prinos and Potami Beaches. This area is a great option to escape the bustle of the town centre while still being within walking distance of all the amenities it offers.
The third choice is up in the old town which offers the most peaceful location and epic views of the coast below. However, I’d only recommend staying here if you have a car as I wouldn’t fancy walking the steep 3km back up from the beach every day!
Hotels In Himare
We found accommodation prices to be noticeably higher here than compared to Saranda, but with options ranging from hostels and campsites to fancier hotels, guesthouses, and holiday apartments, there’s still something for every budget.
Himare Hostel: Popular and social hostel offering dorms, private rooms and tents, only a 10 minutes walk from Himare beach. A great place to meet other travellers and keep costs down!
Aeria Rooms Himare ($): Where we stayed! Spacious, clean, air-conditioned rooms only a 15 minute walk from the beach. This guesthouse is perfect for budget travellers like us!
Mateo ($$): Incredible central location above the promenade with modern rooms, seafront balconies and a large rooftop. This recently renovated hotel is perfect if you want to be in the heart of Himare!
Sea View Hotel ($$$): Luxury hotel near Prinos beach with elegantly designed rooms and suites with swimming pool and a sun terrace. Ideal for travellers looking for stylish comfort!
Best Things To Do In Himare
As a relatively small coastal town, you’d be forgiven for thinking the only itinerary for Himare is eat, sleep, beach, repeat, but as I mentioned, there are quite a few activities to keep you occupied.
So, if you’re wondering what to do in Himare, keep reading as I’ve covered everything worth doing below.
1. Explore Himare’s Beaches
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that hitting the beaches in Himare tops the list of things to do. I mean, it’s just common sense for a beach town, right?
But, while you can easily let time slip away on the main central beaches like Plazhi I Himares, Sfageio Beach, and Prinos Beach, I implore you to explore further to the north and south in search of others.
There are some simply stunning pebble shores, which are some of the best beaches in Albania, waiting for you along the coast in both directions.
A few of my favourites that you can reach on foot include:
Filikuri Beach, which sits 2km south of Himare surrounded by rugged cliffs, is a wonderfully unspoiled and raw pebble beach which has seen no development due to its secluded location. As well as walking, you can also get here from Himare by water taxi or kayaking.
Livadhi Beach is one of the longest beaches in the area, stretching for 1.5 kilometres. It has an epic setting with immense mountains and Old Himare making up the backdrop and a rocky headland at each corner. Make sure to grab a coffee or lunch at Tonea’s All Day Brunch & Cafe while you’re there.
A few kilometres further north of Livadhi, Aquarium Beach might be tiny but it’s one of the most picture-perfect we visited in Himare! Definitely try and get here earlier in the day as there’s not much space once the crowds start to arrive!
2. Join A Boat Tour To Grama Bay
One of, if not the best thing we did in Himare was join a boat trip and cruise along the sparkling Ionian Sea.
As well as getting a unique view of the coastline, you’ll also discover secluded beaches and hidden caves that can’t be reached by land.
There are a couple of itineraries to different beaches on offer, but I highly recommend the tour to Grama Bay as it’s one of our favourite spots along the whole Albanian Riviera and you can’t get there by car!
Tucked into a scenic rocky inlet surrounded by towering cliffs, Grama Bay is like an untouched postcard due to its remote location.
Other spots you’ll discover include Pigeon Cave Beach, Pirate Caves, and Saint Andreas Bay.
You can easily book a tour online, or directly with the tour companies that have stalls along the promenade in the mornings and evenings.
We booked ours online through GetYourGuide which you can find here, and we thoroughly recommend it as we thought there was a great balance between making different stops while not feeling rushed!
3. Wander Around Himare Old Town And Castle
If there’s only one thing that you pull yourself away from the beaches for, make sure it’s a visit to Himare Castle and Old Town which, as well as being the town’s oldest neighbourhood, has phenomenal views over the coastline below!
Perched at the top of a large hill 240 metres above the coastline, the history of Old Himare dates back a staggering 3,500+ years to the late Bronze Age!
It was around 400 B.C. that it became a walled citadel and fortress before serving as a strategic stronghold until the early 19th century.
These days, you can wander through the cobbled streets where you’ll find the castle ruins, the Church of Sergius and Bacchus, viewpoints, and Cafe Butterfly, which is a great little place to grab a coffee or a bite to eat with fantastic views from the terrace.
Although the castle and much of the old town is in ruin and disrepair, some of the stone buildings have been beautifully restored and hopefully restoration projects will continue to bring it all back to its former glory!
If you don’t have a car, it’s a 3km uphill walk from the promenade, which took us 45 minutes. I’d recommend visiting for sunset as not only will the walk be less sweaty, but the soft light and golden glow over the landscape is beautiful.
There’s a car park, information signs, and a ticket office at the old town entrance, and there’s an entrance fee of 300 ALL per person.
Read My Full Guide: A Guide To Visiting Himare Castle And Old Town
4. Hike To Pilur For Unbeatable Views
One of the most rewarding things we did on our second visit to Himare was hike up to Pilur, a cute village in the mountains above the beach town.
The 6.5km hike to the mountain village took us around 2 hours and 45 minutes and, with a 700 metre elevation gain, it does require a bit of effort.
Starting from Oasis Hostel, the first half takes you into the countryside and through olive tree fields before the steeper incline begins.
The second part is more strenuous as you wind your way through the alpine trees until you finally reach Pilur, which has two restaurants open in the summer for you to grab some well-earned food and drinks.
If you’re up for the adventure, then the effort is definitely worth it though!
The views are spectacular, the Himare countryside is a peaceful escape from the bustling promenade, and Pilur is a lovely little village with well-polished and elegant houses.
However, an easier option is to just do the first half up to Kisha e Shen Nikolles, which took us one hour from the promenade. This old, pocket-sized church has an impressive mountain backdrop as well as views over the surrounding landscape and coastline.
Hiking Tip: Follow the Himare to Pilur trail on Maps.Me as it’s more accurate than Google Maps.
Get All The Details: My Full Guide To The Himare To Pilur Hike
5. Visit Porto Palermo Castle
Another historic castle worth visiting is located in the nearby bay of Porto Palermo.
A mighty triangular-shaped fortress, Porto Palermo Castle was constructed as early as 1804 (some claim it was built earlier by the Venetians) by the Ottoman ruler Ali Pasha.
It’s connected to the mainland by a small causeway and, unlike the ruined Himare Castle, it still retains its full structure. This means you can go inside and wander around the fort, which has a courtyard, prison, watchtowers, and an upper terrace to explore.
The entrance fee to the castle is 300 ALL and it’s open from 9am until 6pm in the summer season and 8am until 4pm during the rest of the year.
From Himare, Porto Palermo sits 8km to the south, and if you have a rental car, then it’s an easy 15 minute drive with parking available right outside the fort.
However, if like us you don’t, you can hop on one of the buses heading to Saranda for 200 ALL. You’ll pay the driver when you’re getting off and just make sure to ask what time he’ll be passing back through on his way back. The bus times are less structured here so make sure you’re waiting early.
While visiting Porto Palermo, make sure to look out for the old communist-era submarine tunnel in the north of the bay, as well as spending some time at the stunning little pebble beach to the south.
6. Hike Along The Coast To Jale Beach
Himare is connected all the way to Jale Beach in the north by a coastal trail, and going for a hike along this route is a great activity.
The full trail is around 6km and takes around 2 hours, however, it’ll likely take longer as I imagine you’ll want to stop at some of the beautiful beaches the trail passes, like we did!
You don’t need to hike all the way to Jale though, you can do as much or as little of it as you like. While we managed to hike the whole way, I’d say walking as far as Livadhi Beach (45 minutes) or even Aquarium Beach (90 minutes) is a perfect day out from Himare.
The trail starts in the northern headland of Himare, at the top of the stairs to the north of the promenade. Head left from here and you’ll reach the Pine Campsite entrance before following the sign for Livadhi, which takes you past Kiko Beach and eventually to Livadhi Beach.
In my opinion, the headland to the north of Livadhi Beach is the best part of the trail as it has some awesome views before the path leads down to Aquarium and Guma Beaches.
Finally, there’s a flat section that takes you along to Jale Beach.
To return to Himare, you only have the choice of retracing your steps back along the coast – there’s not a loop as such.
7. Paddle Out On A Kayak Or SUP
If the wind isn’t too strong and the waves aren’t too big, then Himare is a great place to head out in a kayak or stand-up paddleboard.
If you’re feeling adventurous, we saw people kayaking all the way around to Filikuri Beach, but you can also just enjoy a simple cruise around the bay.
I fell into the latter category and enjoyed a sunset kayak out to the rocks around the northern headland.
I’d recommend a paddle either early in the day or towards sunset as it’s usually less windy, making it a calmer and more peaceful experience.
There are a few places to rent from along the promenade, but I grabbed one from Himare Sea The Day at the southern end and was happy with the quality and price.
8. Relax At A Beach Club
While I think it’s great that the town hasn’t been completely taken over by private beach bars, as we’ve seen elsewhere, you still have the option of enjoying a beach club in Himare.
And I have to admit, I am partial to indulging in the comforts of a beach club once in a while!
The central beaches around the promenade remain public year-round, but large parts of Maracit, Prinos, and Potami beaches in the southern end of the bay are packed with sun beds, umbrellas and beach bars in the summer season.
So, if you fancy sipping on a cocktail on a comfortable sun lounger with some music for a lively atmosphere, these are the beaches you should head to.
A few popular choices include Namos Beach Club and Te Varka Beach Bar and for two sun beds and an umbrella, you can expect to pay between 1000 – 2500 ALL, depending on the month of your visit and if you want a front row spot.
Travel Tip: Most of the beach bars close outside of the peak summer season, so from October to June, the beaches will mostly be empty of loungers.
9. Day Trip To Dhermi
Around 30 minutes along the road from Himare is Dhermi, another beach town with a long stretch of beautiful pebble beach.
Similar to Himare, Dhermi’s old town sits in the hills with views over the coast below. However, the buildings in Old Dhermi are in much better shape due to a lot of investment in their restoration. This makes wandering around these cobbled alleys and soaking in the views an absolute treat!
At the bottom of the snaking road from the old town, Dhermi Beach is absolutely stunning. I still remember seeing a picture of this beach on Instagram years ago and the vibrant teal water is what initially put Albania on my radar!
The main difference to Himare is that Dhermi has a bigger focus on upmarket hotels and beach clubs which you can tell when you wander along the beachfront.
Many people find themselves choosing between the two to base themselves, and I usually recommend Himare for a more local vibe or Dhermi for a more upmarket and fancy experience.
10. Go For A Xhiro Along The Promenade
Why not join the locals on the promenade for a xhiro – an Albanian tradition of simply going for a walk in the evening to enjoy some time outdoors with family or friends.
It’s a big part of the culture in Albania and I agree that a xhiro is one of the simple pleasures we can still make a priority in an age when screen time and technology are taking over.
Unfortunately, in my home country of Scotland, the rain usually puts a dampener on this, but in Himare, an evening stroll along the promenade is a much more pleasant experience!
It’s also a great atmosphere at this time of day when the waves are lapping more softly, people are enjoying cooling temperatures, and the restaurants are setting up for dinner.
11. Sip On A Sunset Cocktail At UMI Sushi & Cocktail
Whether we’d been lounging on the beach or away on an adventure, our favourite way to end each day was with an Aperol Spritz at UMI Sushi and Cocktail’s rooftop terrace.
The terrace looks over the promenade and beach below and is the perfect spot to unwind and reflect on another day in the paradise of the Albanian Riviera – especially between 6-8pm which is happy hour!
There’s no better place to enjoy your favourite cocktail in Himare!
12. Find The Old Military Bunker
Nothing serves as a reminder of Albania’s communist era quite like the concrete military bunkers that remain strewn across the country. There are literally thousands of them that were built during the Hoxhaist regime.
And you can see one up close in the rocks at the southern end of Maracit Beach which looks out over the Ionian Sea.
We came across it while we were exploring the coastline and while it may not be anything special if you’ve seen other bunkers, it’s still a pretty cool and unique insight into the country’s intriguing recent history.
13. Head South To Ksamil And Butrint For The Day
Some of the top attractions in the south of Albania (including the beaches of Ksamil, the ancient ruins of Butrint, the Blue Eye, and Mirror Beach) are located around 60km south of Himare. This means you can realistically visit on a day trip if they are places you really want to see while you’re in Albania.
It will take a few hours each way though, so I’d only recommend it if you have your own car as it just wouldn’t be worth it on public transport.
I’d also recommend hitting the road early and prioritising just one or two places that you think you’ll enjoy the most, as you don’t want to be spread too thin. And if I had to choose only two, they would be Ksamil and Butrint.
Ksamil is probably the most famous place in Albania recently, at least if you go by social media, and I have to admit that the sandy beaches are gorgeous! Almost every inch of sand is taken by a beach club in the summer though, so you’ll need to be prepared to pay for loungers.
Butrint is the most significant archaeological site in Albania and the ruins of the ancient city have remnants of each of the civilisations that settled there over the last 2,500 years. The history is immense and the discoveries are relatively untouched, making it a unique insight into these different time periods.
Best Time To Visit Himare
The weather in Himare is similar to that of any southern Europe beach destination – dry and stifling hot in July and August with recent summers seeing record temperatures.
Himare is also as its busiest at this time as holidaymakers arrive in their droves for their summer beach break.
Therefore, the best time to visit Himare in my opinion is in the shoulder months of May and June, or September and October. During these months, you’ll still have great beach weather, which isn’t as intense, as well as much fewer people to share the beaches with.
Himare is very seasonal though, so just be aware that from October until the end of May, many restaurants and accommodations close. On the plus side, this means you can secure some great deals on accommodation.
How To Get Around
Himare is a walkable beach town and transport isn’t necessary to get around.
And, if you’re up for longer walks, you can also get to many of the surrounding beaches and areas on foot. This is what we did and we had a great time in Himare without a car.
Having said that, a rental car will definitely open up your options and allow you to explore a wider variety of beaches and towns along the coast.
Taxis are also available in Himare, which makes it possible to get to the old town and to other beaches without walking or hiring a car.
Where To Eat – Restaurants In Himare
Himare’s mix of Albanian and Greek culture is most prevalent in the restaurant options, with fresh seafood also a prominent feature on menus.
There are many restaurants lined along the promenade and more options in the couple of streets behind.
I’d recommend dining at a local taverna for at least one of your meals – Valo’s Fish Taverna is a simple but popular choice that we enjoyed.
There are also a couple of finer dining restaurants and our favourite was Merkur Merkuri. The romantic, low-light setting, complemented with unobtrusive music is a great vibe.
Himare has some cheaper eats too, serving the likes of crepes, souvlaki and other fast food. Brothers Grill and Fast Food is the best choice for quick, tasty, and affordable dishes and we found ourselves going back a few times for their souvlaki!
A few other places we liked were Enigma for pizza, Furre Bake Pasticeri for Byrek, and UMI Sushi for evening cocktails.
Good To Know: Due to Himare being very seasonal, most restaurants only open during the summer so options are limited from October to May.
Where To Get Coffee
There aren’t too many cafes to choose from in Himare but, like most places in Albania, there’s always somewhere to get a good coffee.
A few that we liked include:
San Giorgio – our go-to cafe for good coffee on the promenade. We usually went here for a strong macchiato to start out day.
Furre Buke Pastiçeri Himara – a cafe and bakery which not only serves good coffee but also offers a great selection of fresh pastries and cakes! We can vouch for the byrek which is fantastic here!
Anemone – a stylish cafe and the best spot in Himare for digital nomads looking to get some laptop work done.
ATMs
Cash is always important to have in Albania and there were just a couple of restaurants and supermarkets accepting card payment in Himare.
There are a few ATMs in and around town, but they all charge a hefty fee to withdraw your cash. The cheapest we found was the Union Bank ATM with a 650 ALL fee, which is located in a line of ATMs at the south of the promenade next to this one.
I’d recommend taking out larger sums each time to try and save on multiple fees which add up!
How Many Days To Spend In Himare
The amount of time you need in Himare depends on what you would like to do. A couple of days are all that are needed to get a taste for the town and its beaches, while also visiting the castle and hopping on a boat tour.
However, I’d recommend five days or more if you also want to explore further afield to the likes of Porto Palermo, Dhermi, and Pilur, or just want to choose a new beach each day.
But honestly, with the variety of beaches reachable from Himare, I could spend a week or two being a beach bum and taking things at a really relaxed pace.
Where To Go After Himare
Your next destination after Himare depends on which route you’re taking through Albania.
If you’ve come from the likes of Tirana, Berat, or Shkoder from the north, then your next logical step is to head south to either Saranda or Ksamil. Here, you can discover the beaches and attractions of the south before flying out from Corfu or making your way up to Tirana.
Alternatively, if you’ve come up the coast, your next stop could be Dhermi or Vlore for more beaches, Berat to explore the World Heritage City Of A Thousand Windows, or the capital Tirana. From Tirana, you can catch connections to the north or to neighbouring Balkan countries.
To Finish
If there’s only one place that you visit on the Albanian Riviera, then I’d recommend it to be Himare!
The mix of divine beaches, fun activities, and local atmosphere all combine to make it our favourite spot on this stretch of coast!
If you have any questions about Himare, leave a comment below and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can!
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Check out my other Albania posts to help plan your trip to this intriguing Balkan destination!
